Monday, September 21, 2009

Manchester Center, VT to Stratton, ME

Finally trying to catch up on some blogging on my last day of vacation back in Seattle. Flying out this evening back to the northeast and back to the trail....

Vermont (continued):
Day 118, 18 August: Manchester Center, VT to Bromley Mountain to Peru Peak shelter [1650.7], 10.1 mi / 2800 ft gain (arrived after dark, rained that night and we discovered our 'new' tents leaks too!)
Day 119, 19 August: Peru Peak shelter to Greenwall shelter [1665.2], 14.5 mi / 1800 ft gain
Day 120, 20 August: Greenwall shelter to '500 miles to Katahdin point' to Killington Peak to Cooper Lodge [1684.1], 18.9 mi / 5500 ft gain
Day 121, 21 August: Cooper Lodge to Rutland, VT [1690.4], 6.3 mi / 400 ft gain (short day into Rutland to stay at the Twelve Tribes hiker hostel which was a very interesting place to stay)
Day 122, 22 August: Rutland, VT / US 4 to Pittsfield, VT/ VT100 [1693.7], 3.3 mi / 610 ft gain (another short day to stay at The Amie Farm Barn hostel, a cool farm and place but needs some work as a hostel)
Day 123, 23 August: Pittsfield, VT to Winturri shelter [1710.3], 16.6 mi / 4800 ft gain (celebrated our 4-month 'Trail-a-versary' on our 123rd day on the trail by returning to our regular/bigger hiking days and with a little rain....)
Day 124, 24 August: Winturri shelter to Cloudland Farms (ice cream) to West Hartford, VT [1726.7], 16.4 mi / 4300 ft gain (stayed in a friendly locals' free 'non-hostel' hostel garage room. sweet.)

New Hampshire:
Day 125, 25 August: West Hartford, VT to Vermont-New Hampshire border to Hanover, NH to Etna, NH [1742.4], 15.7 mi / 3100 ft gain (stayed at Tigger's Treehouse hostel in a 'cush RV)
Day 126, 26 August: Etna, NH to Firewarden's Cabin on Smarts Mtn [1759.9], 17.5 mi / 6100 ft gain (nice enclosed shelter and the first 'cold' night since May)
Day 127, 27 August: Firewarden's Cabin to Mt. Cube (awesome views) to camping on Mt. Mist [1777.4], 17.5 mi / 3700+ ft gain
Day 128, 28 August: Mt. Mist to Glencliff, NH to Mt. Moosilauke (4802 ft) to Kinsman Notch/Lincoln, NH [1789.3], 11.9 mi / 4300 ft gain (awesome views and weather from the top of Moosilauke, above treeline for the first time on the AT, really steep but cool descent, stayed at Chet's place in Lincoln, a really cool hostel and great guy)
Day 129, 29 August: Zero Day at Chet's place due to really bad weather which turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip!
Day 130, 30 August: Kinsman Notch to South Kinsman (4358 ft) to Lonesome Lake Hut [1802.7], 13.4 mi / 4900 ft gain (tough day, first work-for-stay at AMC hut, beautiful setting)
Day 131, 31 August: Lonesome Lake Hut to Franconia Notch (1450 ft) to Franconia Ridge to Little Haystack Mtn (4760 ft) to Mt. Lincoln (5089 ft) to Mt. Lafayette (5249 ft) to Mt. Garfield (4488 ft) to camping just past Garfield Ridge campsite [1815.9], 13.2 mi / 5700 ft gain (best day ever! perfect weather, awesome views, breezy on ridge, above treeline for a while)
Day 132, 1 September: Garfield Ridge to South Twin Mtn (4902 ft) to Ethan Pond campsite [1830.4], 14.5 mi / 2500+ ft gain (awesome views from the top of South Twin, more fantastic weather, but loud college kids and aggressive raccoon at camp)
Day 133, 2 September: Ethan Pond to Crawford Notch (1277 ft) to Mt. Webster to Mt. Jackson (4052 ft) to Mt. Clinton to Mt. Franklin (5004 ft) to Mt. Monroe to Lakes of the Clouds Hut [1844.5], 14.1 mi / 5600 ft gain (big day climbing most of Mt. Washington including sub-peaks. Scrambled up Monroe after dropping packs. 17 thrus stayed at Lakes this night, it was too hectic. awesome views, sunset, moonrise, no clouds any where.)
Day 134, 3 September: Lakes of the Clouds Hut to Mt. Washington (6288 ft) to Cog Railroad to Presidential Range up to Madison Spring Hut [1851.5], 7.0 mi / 2400 ft gain (unexpectedly decided to stay here since the crew was so nice. 14 of the 17 thrus from the previous hut stayed here this night!)(beautiful weather on top of WA, 60 degrees and no wind! waited half hour to moon the cog railway in true thru hiker tradition!)
Day 135, 4 September: Madison Spring Hut to Mt. Madison (5363 ft) to Pinkham Notch (2035 ft) to Wildcat Ridge to Wildcat Peaks E through A (4380 ft, highest of 5 peaks) to camping at Carter Notch (3290 ft) [1865.2], 13.7 mi / 4600 ft gain (one of the toughest and rockiest days on the trail)
Day 136, 5 September: Carter Notch to Carter Dome (4832 ft) to Mt. Hight (4675 ft) to South, Middle (4600 ft), and North Carter Mtns to Middle Moriah Mtn (3620 ft) to Gorham, NH [1880.4], 15.2 mi / 4000 ft gain (6600 ft descent) (another tough day!) (stayed at nice hostel outside of town, got hitch from chief-of-police, new shoes!)
Day 137, 6 September: Gorham, NH to Gentian Pond shelter [1892.2], 11.8 mi / 4400 ft gain

Maine:
Day 138, 7 September: Gentian Pond shelter to Mt. Success to New Hampshire-Maine border to Goose Eye Mtns to Full Goose shelter [1901.8], 9.6 mi / 4100 ft gain (another brutal day of rocky ups and downs)
Day 139, 8 September: Full Goose shelter to Mahoosuc Notch to Mahoosuc Arm to Grafton Notch to Baldpate Lean-to [1913.8], 12.0 mi / 4400 ft gain (another really tough day. Mahoosuc notch is suppose to be the hardest mile on the AT.)
Day 140, 9 September: Baldpate Lean-to to Baldpate Mtns (cool views) to camping at South Arm Road [1931.9], 18.1 mi / 5800 ft gain (another huge, hard day)
Day 141, 10 September: South Arm Road to Resupply in Andover, ME (in and out) to Bemis Range to camping at Bemis Stream [1944.4], 12.5 mi / 3900 ft gain (fun group this night at camp)
Day 142, 11 September: Bemis Stream to Moxie Pond to Little Swift River Pond (took canoe out) to Rangeley, ME [1958.3], 13.9 mi / 3100 ft gain (stayed in Rangeley at the Gull Pond Lodge, a great hostel)
Day 143, 12 September: Rangeley, ME to Ethel Pond (saw our first moose of the trip) to Saddleback Mtn (4120 ft) to Poplar Ridge Lean-to [1969.0], 10.7 mi / 4000 ft gain (good day, first little sprinkle since VT! met Sky and Cat at shelter; some Mainers who offered us a ride and great hospitality)
Day 144, 13 September: Poplar Ridge Lean-to to Spaulding Mtn to Sugarloaf Mtn to Crocker Cirque campsite [1983.2], 14.2 mi / 4100 ft gain
Day 145, 14 September: Crocker Cirque campsite to Crocker Mtns to ME 27 / Stratton, ME [1990.5], 7.3 mi / 2000 ft gain (Sky and Cat - former thru hikers - picked us up and gave us a ride to Isleboro Island (via ferry) on the mid-coast and put us up for the night in their home. Lobster bbq on the beach that night and awesome phosphorescence in the ocean makes this the most magical of trail magic!)

Day 146, 15 September: Thus begins our sequence of 8 zero days.....

Friday, August 21, 2009

Rutland, VT

Caroline and I just arrived into Rutland, VT barely beating the rain and after waiting for our second longest hitch of the trail: 15 minutes. We checked into the Back Home Again Cafe and Hostel which is operated by the 'Twelve Tribes'community which I know nothing about yet, but will know something soon... (I hear they are kind of like a cult). Its a work for stay place that is suppose to have awesome food so we have to go help clean up the cafe at 3 PM to 'earn our keep'.

We've hiked 1690 miles so far and have 488 miles to go. We'll be in Hanover, New Hampshire in 3 days unless the weather keeps us down! Bring on the White Mountains.

Hiked up Killington Peak yesterday which was a fair hike. 19 miles and 5500 feet of elevation gain for the day! Still waiting for the cool weather to roll in now that we have our winter gear..... Adious.
Iceman

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Manchester Center, Vermont

I LoVermont as the saying goes but the Trail has been pretty muddy since we crossed the MA/VT border. We arrived into Manchester Center, VT yesterday afternoon (August 17) and after picking up our mail drops from the outfitter, grocery shopping, and a large pizza for lunch, Jeff Taussig picked us up and took us to one of the absolute best hostels on the entire AT, Green Mountain House. Freezer stocked with Ben and Jerry's of course!! We would stay here another night but the limit is 10 hikers, reservations are required, and he is all booked up here again tonight. So sometime this afternoon we will hesitantly go hike a few miles in this heat wave (which is suppose to end tomorrow) to the first shelter.

Next stop is Rutland, VT in a few days, but only for a quick resupply. Next night in town will be Hanover, NH!! I have all my winter gear on my back once again which feels silly since its 92 degrees out, but later in the week the high is going to be 69, so I'm really looking forward to some cooler weather.

And did I mention we are finally back in the mountains again? Fantastical!! The views from the peaks have been tremendous, if a little hazy lately from the heat. Can't wait to get high again!!

I've got 4 weeks before I take 8 days off from Sept. 15 - 22 so we will try to get into Maine before then.

(in case you didn't see it, there is another post below this one)

Catching UP! Day by day breakdown from Palmerton, PA to Manchester, VT

Just trying to catch up with the day by day break down....

Pennsylvania:
Day 91, 22 July: Palmerton, PA to Wind Gap [1268.0], 20.5 mi / 3300 ft gain
Day 92, 23 July: Wind Gap to Delaware Water Gap, PA [1283.6], 15.6 mi / 1500 ft gain
Day 93, 24 July: Zero day in DWG, PA

New Jersey:
Day 94, 25 July: DWG, PA to PA/NJ state line to a camp on random ridge [1298.2], 14.6 mi / 2600 ft gain (big scary thunderstorm right over our tent this night! And yes, the tent leaked!)
Day 95, 26 July: random ridge to Gren Anderson Shelter [1315.0], 16.8 mi / 2200 ft gain
Day 96, 27 July: Gren Anderson Shelter to Highpoint State Park, NJ to Quarry Road/Unionville, NY and the Mayor's House [1334.4], 18.4 mi / 2300 ft gain (not actually in NY on the trail yet. Mayor's House was an awesome place to stay!)
Day 97, 28 July: Zero day at the Mayor's House, too good to leave!
Day 98, 29 July: Quarry Road/Unionville to Wawayanda Shelter [1352.0], 17.6 mi / 3300 ft gain

New York:
Day 99, 30 July: Wawayanda Shelter to NJ/NY state line to Mombasha High Point [1367.8], 15.8 mi / 2500 ft gain
Day 100, 31 July: Mombasha High Point to William Brien Shelter [1383.6], 15.8 mi / 5000 ft gain
Day 101, 1 August: William Brien Shelter to Bear Mt, NY zoo to Fort Montgomery, NY for resupply to Graymoor Friary [1398.8], 15.2 mi / 4000 ft gain
Day 102, 2 August: Graymoor Friary to RPH Shelter [1417.7], 18.9 mi / 4400(?) ft gain (ordered calzones and pizza at shelter! and happy reunion with many good hiker friends)
Day 103, 3 August: RPH Shelter to Telephone Pioneers Shelter [1434.5], 16.8 mi / 3400 ft gain

Connecticut:
Day 104, 4 August: T.P. Shelter to NY/CT state line to Schaghticoke Mtn campsite [1452.7], 18.2 mi / 3800 ft gain
Day 105, 5 August: Schaghticoke Mtn to Kent, CT [1455.9], 3.2 mi / 800 ft gain (first 'nearo' day - or 'near zero' day - in a while! stayed at B&B)(got new shoes in the mail finally! feet feel good)
Day 106, 6 August: Kent, CT to Pine Swamp Brook Lean-to [1472.9], 17.0 mi / 4500 ft gain (had to help/rescue an injured hiker, Matthew, this day)
Day 107, 7 August: Pine Swamp Brook to Riga Lean-to [1492.7], 19.8 mi / 3900 ft gain (first time we were the only ones at a shelter!)

Massachusetts:
Day 108, 8 August: Riga to Bear Mtn (highest point in CT) to CT/MA state line to camp at US 7/Great Barrington, MA [1510.7], 18.0 mi / 3300 ft gain (passed 1500 miles on this day!)
Day 109, 9 August: US 7/Great Barrinton, MA (in for resupply) to Mt. Wilcox North Lean-to [1524.2], 13.5 mi / 3500 ft gain
Day 110, 10 August: Mt. Wilcox North to Interstate 90 over pass (Seattle to Boston!!) - to October Mtn Lean-to [1547.0], 22.8 mi / 4300 ft gain (my feet really hurt after this long day!)
Day 111, 11 August: October Mtn to Dalton, MA [1558.8], 11.8 mi / 1200 ft gain (stayed w/ Rob Bird at The Bird Cage for 2 nights, awesome place!)
Day 112, 12 August: Zero Day at The Bird Gage
Day 113, 13 August: Dalton, MA to Mt Greylock (highest point in MA @ 3491') [1575.8], 17.0 mi / 4600 ft gain (easy hike, camped in emergency shelter on summit, great views)

Vermont:
Day 114, 14 August: Mt Greylock to resupply at MA2 to MA/VT state line to Seth Warner Shelter [1589.0], 13.2 mi / 2800 ft (I LoVermont! but its muddy....)(a couple of bears visited the shelter this evening and wouldn't leave!)
Day 115, 15 August: Seth Warner Shelter to camping at Glastenbury lookout [1608.1], 19.1 mi / 4400 ft gain
Day 116, 16 August: Glastenbury lookout to Glastenbury Mtn (3748') to Stratton Mtn (3936') to Stratton Pond Shelter [1630.0], 21.9 mi / 4500 ft gain (big day but not too sore)
Day 117, 17 August: Stratton Pond Shelter to Manchester Center, VT [1640.6], 10.6 mi / 1100 ft gain (stayed at Green Mountain House, one of the best hostel on the entire trail!)

Day 118, 18 August: Manchester Center, VT to ????? (we would stay here but the place is all full for the night! :-( )

Friday, July 24, 2009

Delaware Water Gap, PA

Cattywampus and Iceman arrived into Delaware Water Gap, PA yesterday (Thursday) evening in the pouring rain. Actually, it stopped raining a few miles before town. We stayed at the church hostel and were fortunate enough to arrive an hour before a big hiker feed hosted by the church and town folk. What luck! It was super crowded however, 20-25 thru hikers; definitely the most thru-hikers we've seen at one place. Kind of crazy. Cool town though. Taking a zero day today for mental and physical mending. DWG is right on the PA-NJ border so when we hike out tomorrow we'll be leaving this state for good. Since this is our last stop in Pennsylvania I've got the hankering to write an...

Ode to Pennsylvania
Oh Pennsylvania, you suck
You really, really suck
No, seriously, you suck big time
You are hot, buggy, spring-less, rocky, poison ivy-filled, viewless, and you smell bad too
I thought I was going to like you when I first met you, but sometime after Duncannon your true spirit shone thru
Tomorrow I leave you for good, hopefully forever
Good riddance, who needs you?, coal-shmoal...
F.U. PA!!

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Duncannon, PA to Palmerton, PA

Mile 1247.5! Both exciting and depressing. Thats a long way to walk. Pennsylvania is proving to be a hot, buggy, rocky, viewless, dry (very few water sources), poison ivy-filled state. I didn't mind southern PA too much, but lately its been hard going. Spirits waivering, right foot really hurting (and the rocks don't help), sweating every day. Hiking the A.T. is much tougher mentally than I could have ever imagined. Really, really looking forward to the Northeast, but that is still a ways off. We still have lots more hot, buggy, rocky, viewless, waterless, poison ivy-filled terrain to cover before its gets better. What have I gotten myself into?

Staying at the "Jailhouse Hostel" in Palmerton, PA tonight. An old police station that the city allows hikers to stay in for free. Palmerton is a weird and kind of wonderful town. I'm glad we stopped here. We are back amongst a group of other thru-hikers which is fun since we seemed to be all by ourselves for a while.

If I had known there would be this much poison ivy on the AT I very likely would not have chosen to hike it. Its ridiculous sometimes, actually nearly all the time. I have no idea how I have avoided contracting it but I hope my luck holds. Did I mention that I hate bugs and heat?

We saw 6 Timber Rattlers on the trail the other day (Sunday). We've seen probably over a dozen now (never more than one a day until now though) and often times they scare the living shit out of me when I walk up on them. Like the first one we saw yesterday which was hidden between some rocks, that I nearly walked over not 30 seconds after I think we saw another copperhead slither by. Then a really, really big one was pointed out to us just off the trail while we were on a break not 2 miles later. Then, on the same break, we went up to look at a viewpoint where we heard some rattlers had been sunning earlier and we saw 4 more rattlers in 2 sets - one set intertwined - not 5 feet from each other. It felt like the snake den out of Raiders of the Lost Arc. Got some good photos and videos. They are amazing creatures. Sure wish all poisonous snakes had rattles to warn you. Good stuff.

Tomorrow, Tuesday, we'll hike out of Palmerton towards Delaware Water Gap, PA where we'll hopefully spend the night on Thursday. I hope I make it. I sure wasn't expecting my body to be in this much pain, this late in the hike. I've lost all hope that my body will heal while I'm on the trail. Now its just a game of mental toughness. I hope I win.



Day 84, 15 July: Duncannon, PA - Peters Mtn Shelter [1148.6], 11.3 mi / 2000ft gain
Day 85, 16 July: Peters Mtn Shelter - camping near Swatara Gap [1172.1], 23.5 mi / 2900ft gain (saw a really fat Timber Rattler on the trail this day)
Day 86, 17 July: Swatara Gap - 501 Shelter [1183.5], 11.4 mi / 1900ft gain (rain cut our day short again. Sweet, fully enclosed shelter with outside shower)
Day 87, 18 July: 501 Shelter - Port Clinton, PA [1207.2], 23.7 mi / 2000ft gain (ole foot really hurtin lately)
Day 88, 19 July: Port Clinton, PA - Eckville Shelter [1222.4], 15.2 mi / 2500ft gain (this shelter was like a hostel bunkhouse really. also saw possibly our first copperhead)
Day 89, 20 July: Eckville Shelter - Bake Oven Knob Shelter [1239.8], 17.4 mi / 2600ft gain (saw 6, yes 6, rattlers on the trail this day)
Day 90, 21 July: Bake Oven Knob Shelter - Palmerton, PA [1247.5], 7.7 mi / ??ft gain (spirits were waivering lately and foot really sore, so called it a short day)

Harpers Ferry, WV to Duncannon, PA

This stretch of trail between Harpers Ferry and Duncannon was really flat, fast, and easy. Nevertheless, the fact that we had only hiked half the trail was a bit overwhelming. It was exciting and depressing all at once.

Duncannon was a cool place. We stayed at the historic Doyle Hotel; a run down place with a lot of character and friendly people. A $25 hotel room is hard to find these days! Also found the last good food bargain in this country. For breakfast I had 3 thick, 'big-as-your-head' blueberry pancakes at a diner across the street for $2.90! I couldn't finish them and I have a thru-hikers appetite!! NICE.

Day 76, 7 July: Zero Day 9: Harpers Ferry, WV (this was a planned zero day)
Day 77, 8 July: Zero Day 10: Harpers Ferry, WV (this was an unplanned zero day!!)

Day 78, 9 July: Harpers Ferry, WV - WV/MD border - Pine Knob Shelter (MD) [1036.4], 21.4 mi / 3800ft gain
Day 79, 10 July: Pine Knob Shelter - MD/PA border - Deer Lick Shelter (PA) [1059.1], 22.7 mi / 3900ft gain
Day 80, 11 July: Deer Lick Shelter - Fayetteville, PA resupply - Quarry Gap Shelter [1074.9], 15.8 mi / 2400ft gain (heavy rain shortened our day!)
Day 81, 12 July: Quarry Gap Shelter - Midpoint of A.T (1089.1 miles) - Pine Grove Furnace S.P. - James Frye Shelter at Tagg Run [1099.4], 24.5 mi / 2600ft gain (Hooray, we're half way.... We're only half way.....)
Day 82, 13 July: James Frye Shelter - Boiling Springs, PA - Darlington Shelter [1125.9], 26.5 mi / 3500ft gain
Day 83, 14 July: Darlington Shelter - Duncannon, PA [1137.3], 11.4 mi / 1400ft gain (stayed at the histroic Doyle Hotel, an awesome place)

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

A couple more pics

Cattywampus and Iceman at Rockfish Gap near Waynesboro, VA

Getting ready to head into Shenandoah NP after a relaxing and luxurious town stop.



A drive by shooting from Catty's parents just after they dropped us off.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Waynesboro, VA to Harpers Ferry, WV

(1 other new post below this one)

I'm pleased to be writing this from Harpers Ferry, WV!

'Zeros'
As of today we have hiked 1015 miles of the AT!!! Today (Tuesday, 7 July 2009) is our first 'zero day' (day with zero miles hiked) since Pearisburg, VA which was nearly 400 miles ago. We've taken 1 zero day since leaving Watagua Lake, NC nearly 600 miles ago; so 1 zero day during the entire state of Virginia! We are pretty happy with our progress thus far but we are moving at a fairly average speed. We still need to pick up our daily milage and average close to 18 miles per day to finish by mid September.

'Bears'
We saw bears 4 out of the 6 days we were in the Shennies and also on our first day out of the Shennies. Something like 14 bears all together. We had no idea there where that many bears in the Shennies as people always play up the number of bears in the smokies. We had a couple of 'encounters' during which I was glad to have another person by my side. Momma bears are pretty protective of their cubs. And who knew bears where such agile tree climbers? Probably a quarter of the bears spotted were up in the trees!

'Shennies are NOT flat'
Whoever said that the Shennies were flat is spreading lies. By looking at our daily elevation gain - we hiked nearly 22,000 ft of elevation gain through the park - it is quite evident that they are not flat. They are however well graded with no steep climbs. We were misled into thinking they would be a cakewalk. They were NOT!

'Birthday Challenge 2 of 2'
I'm happy to announce that birthday challenge 2 of 2 was a GREAT SUCCESS!! We woke up at 3:42 AM (the exact time I was born) on July 5, left camp at 4:45 AM, hiked for 16 hours, 31 miles, and 7000 ft of elevation gain to celebrate the start of my 31st trip around the sun on this big, beautiful orb we call Earth! I was pretty tired that evening and Cattywampus made dinner for me and carried around a huge chocolate bar and some delicious cookies to surprise me with. What a gal!!


Okay and now for the day by day breakdown. Hope this is not too boring.....

Day 67, 28 June: Waynesboro, VA - Shenandoah N.P. southern boundry - Calf Mtn Shelter [859.5], 7.0 mi / 1900ft gain (short day because it was hard to leave town after staying at the Marriot!)
Day 68, 29 June: Calf Mtn Shelter - Loft Mtn campground [879.9], 20.4 mi / 4300ft gain (saw a wild turkey and chick and 7 bears this day including 2 sets of a mom and 2 cubs with the cubs climbing up into the trees to escape us!)
Day 69, 30 June: Loft Mtn - Lewis Mtn campground [905.6], 25.7 mi / 5700ft gain (saw a couple more bears on the AT this day)
Day 70, 1 July: Lewis Mtn - lunch and resupply at Big Meadows Wayside - camped near Skyland [921.6], 16.0 mi / 3400ft gain (got dumped/rained on this day for the first time since 17 June!)
Day 71, 2 July: Skyland - camped at Elkwallow Picnic Area [940.1], 18.5 mi / 3400ft gain (exact same elevation gain as previous day)
Day 72, 3 July: Elkwallow - Compton Gap Trail/Front Royal Hostel [955.8], 15.7 mi / 3100ft gain (fantastic hostel! saw another bear this day)
Day 73, 4 July: Compton Gap Trail - Manassas Gap Shelter [970.3], 14.5 mi / 3000ft gain
Day 74, 5 July: Manassas Gap Shelter - 'Roller Coaster' - 1000-mile mark - Blackburn ATC center [1001.0], 31+ mi (30.7 'AT miles' plus >.5 'off trail miles') / 7040ft gain!! (2nd part of the Birthday Challenge)
Day 75, 6 July: Blackburn center - Harpers Ferry Hostel [1015], 14.0 mi / 1400ft gain (got picked up by Trail Angel 'Blue Moon' and stayed with him this night and not at the hostel!)
Day 76, 7 July: Zero Day in Harpers Ferry

Daleville, VA to Waynesboro, VA

Where was it that I left off? Ah, so much has happened since I last posted. I'll put the day-by-day breakdown at the bottom this time.

'Tender Feet'
Had a hell of a 225 miles from Pearisburg to Waynesboro wearing shoes that I had previously worn but no longer fit my feet. Hiking when every single step you take is painful is not fun! I'll never again use untested shoes for long distance hiking! ouch. I didn't even have any insoles for the first 150 miles until I got to an outfitter in Daleville.

'Summer Solstice, National Hike Naked Day - June 21st'
Not ones to shy away from any tradition, we fully welcomed the coming summer by partaking in one of the oldest and purest of AT traditions. The day was made all the more interesting by the numerous road crossings (Blue Ridge Parkway crossings no less). Fortunately we only ended up offending 2 or 3 people by days end. Very liberating.....

'Living Lare in Waynesboro'
Caroline's parents came to visit her in Waynesboro and ended up buying an extra room for a few hikers (4 total) to crash in. It was sooooo sweet! So thats how the other half live, wow! They did our laundry, took us to do our errands, and capped the night off by making home-made ice cream. Incredible! My stay in Waynesboro also included two All-You-Can-Eat buffets in less than 12 hours. First a Chinese buffet for dinner, then a fantastic breakfast buffet at the Marriot. Stuffed. Hard to go hiking after a day like that.... But the Shennies (Shenandoah National Park) awaited....

Day-by-day by day?

Day 59, 20 June: Daleville, VA - 1/3-of-the-way mark [726.1]- Wilson Creek Shelter [729.8], 11.2 mi / 2800ft gain (bugs are bad, bad, bad! and "the heat, my god, the heat"! Iceman was not made to endure hiking in the heat)
Day 60, 21 June: Wilson Creek Shelter - Bryant Ridge Shelter [750.4], 20.6 mi / 4000ft gain (Summer Solstice & National Hike Naked Day)
Day 61, 22 June: Bryant Ridge Shelter - camped at Marble Spring [767.6], 17.2 mi / 5200ft gain
Day 62, 23 June: Marble Spring - Punchbowl Shelter [785.8], 18.2 mi / 3900ft gain (saw another fat rattler on the trail this day)
Day 63, 24 June: Punchbowl Shelter - Buena Vista, VA resupply - camped atop Cold Mtn [802.1], 16.3 mi / 4600ft gain (great campsite/views, saw first skunk)
Day 64, 25 June: Cold Mtn - camped atop The Priest [818.4], 16.3 mi / 3600ft gain (great campsite/views again; discovered a little poison ivy on my back this AM!)
Day 65, 26 June: The Priest - BRP mile 9.6/Rusty's Hardtime Hollow hostel [838.3], 19.9 mi / 4500ft gain (cool place, but I think its lost its charm)
Day 66, 27 June: BRP mile 9.6 - Waynesboro, VA [852.5], 14.2 mi / 2200ft gain (living the life of luxery at the Marriot)

Saturday, June 27, 2009

picture time!!

I finally had some time and the resources to put some pictures up. Click on picture to view a larger version. ENJOY!


Iceman at Doll Flats, the final NC-TN border crossing, with Jade, Sarge's pooch (mile 385.2)


Cattywampus (Caroline) and Iceman at the TN-VA border (mile 459.3).


Iceman and Cattywampus in the 'Magic Bus' (mile ~511)


First Rattler (mile ~558)


Cattywampus in rhododendron thicket (mile ~580)


Iceman and Cattywampus at El Ranchero, Pearisburg, VA (mile 625.9)


Cattywampus and box turtle on Cattywampus's 23rd birthday (mile ~676)


Iceman on McAfee Knob (mile 702.5)


"Watch Out for Hikers!" Iceman crossing the street in Daleville, VA (mile 718.6)


Iceman at the 1/3-of-the-way mark! (mile 726)


Another fat rattler! (mile ~775)


Iceman escaping the bugs on top of The Priest! (mile 818.4)


Iceman trapped in a tree (mile ~841)

Friday, June 19, 2009

Pearisburg, VA to Daleville, VA

(3 new posts follow)

So here we are in Daleville, VA after two leisurely days of hiking on achy feet; 6 days after leaving Pearisburg. Mile 718.6!

Day 53, 14 June: Pearisburg, VA - Pine Swamp Branch Shelter [645.2], 19.3 mi / 4200ft gain (mentally hard day getting back on the trail after our zero day in P-burg)
Day 54, 15 June: Pine Swamp - Laurel Creek Shelter [663.7], 18.5 mi / 4300ft gain
Day 55, 16 June: Laurel Creek - Niday Shelter [676.1], 12.4 mi / 2700ft gain (rain is back!)
Day 56, 17 June: Niday - Dragon's Tooth - Catawba, VA resupply - Johns Spring Shelter [699.8], 23.7 mi /7330ft gain (Caroline's 23rd birthday challenge - 23+ miles)(saw a box turtle right off the bat - Caroline's favorite animal - a good omen)(rain all day so no views, really tough terrain, no respite from the weather, heaps of up and down, all around tough day!!)
Day 57, 18 June: Johns Spring - McAfee Knob (views finally!) - Tinker Cliffs (more views) - Lamberts Meadow Shelter [709.2], 9.4 mi / 2500ft gain (good weather and great views finally! feet are reeling from blisters)
Day 58, 19 June: Lambert Meadow - Daleville, VA [718.6], 9.4 mi / 1400ft gain (limped into town, Caroline treated me to hotel)


'Birthday Challenge'
A couple weeks ago Caroline suggested hiking 23 miles on her 23rd birthday. It was planned and accomplished with GREAT SUCCESS. Next challenge is to hike 31 miles on my 31st birthday. We are hoping for easier terrain and better weather on 5 July....

I'd like to write more but I've already spent to much time here and Caroline is standing over my shoulder analyzing what I'm writing and complaining that I'm not using her trail name, 'Cattywampus'. so good bye for now.

Damascus, VA to Pearisburg, VA

Okay, I'm using the hotel's 'business center' computer so I'll try to update what I can.


After doing all of our town errands that morning, we got a late start - 4:30 PM - out of Damascus, VA [total trail miles: 463.0] on Wednesday, 3 June....

Day 42, 3 June: Damascus, VA - Saunders Shelter [472.4], 9.4 mi / 2400ft gain
Day 43, 4 June: Saunders - Whitetop Mtn - Thomas Knob Shelter [491.0], 18.6 mi / 4900ft gain (rain most of the day, no views, and walked through thick fields of poison ivy!)
Day 44, 5 June: Thomas Knob - 500-mile mark!!! - Hurricane Mtn Shelter [507.0], 16.0 mi / 2600ft gain (cold, nasty rain all day again)
Day 45, 6 June: Hurricane Mtn - Partnership Shelter [526.7], 19.7 mi / 3200ft gain (delivered pizza and hot shower at shelter!)
Day 46, 7 June: Partnership - Atkins, VA - Davis Path camping [541.0], 14.3 mi / 2700ft gain (hitched from Atkins to Marion, VA to resupply, shower and laundry at hotel, then hike out! first day w/o rain in a while)
Day 47, 8 June: Davis Path - Chestnut Knob Shelter [561.3], 20.3 mi / 5600ft gain (now 1/4 of AT complete!)(saw fat rattle snake on trail this afternoon; saved by Caroline's bravery)
Day 48, 9 June: Chestnut Knob - shitty camping site [576.2], 14.9 mi / 2400ft gain (saw a bear high up in a tree just off the trail this day!)
Day 49, 10 June: camping - Jenny Knob Shelter [595.1], 18.9 mi / 3500ft gain (saw baby deer on trail, then a turkey with ~8 chicks scared the bejesus out of us, then we saw our first Box Turtle, Caroline's favorite animal)
Day 50, 11 June: Jenny Knob - Sugar Run Gap/Woodshole Hostel [615.5], 20.4 mi / 4600ft gain (tough, rainy day. awesome hostel in old farmstead)(50th night on the trail!)
Day 51, 12 June: Sugar Run Gap - Pearisburg, VA [625.9], 10.4 mi / 2000ft gain

Day 52, 13 June: Zero Day 8: Pearisburg, VA (walked all over town on our zero day doing errands, went to community pool, tough hike out in the morning)

Next post will be Pearisburg, VA to Daleville, VA where I am today (Friday, 19 June)plus some funny stories and anecdotes.

In Daleville, VA

Just a quick update now but hopefully I'll have a chance for a full update later tonight. We just arrived in Daleville, VA this afternoon. On Wednesday, 17 June - to celebrate Cattywampus's (aka Caroline) 23rd birthday - we hiked 23.7 miles over some pretty tough terrain through rain all day with no views and no respite from the weather. I was running my altimeter log and at the end of the day we had over 7300 vertical feet of elevation gain. I was monitoring it throughout the day so I know it was accurate! I literally limped into camp that night after a 13+ hour day.

Now we are wishing for rain as its freaking hot and humid out right now. Caroline has treated me to a hotel room for the night so I'm living large. Doing laundry, lounging by the pool, and eating some food are planned for this afternoon. We will limp out of town tomorrow morning after the free breakfast.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Hampton, TN to Boone, NC to Damascus, VA

(3 new posts follow)
Back in Hampton, TN on Friday (29 May), Caroline and I spent the day recovering from our respective aliments. Not sure if I had poison ivy or not but I was sure glad to get into town for a shower and laundry. Caroline is very good at spotting poison ivy and she has been keeping me out of a lot of trouble. :-) The Braemar Castle hostel in Hampton was very relaxing and we met up with a couple of old hiker friends who were also recovering. Since we were planning to spend the day on Watauga Lake on Sunday with heaps of folks, we decided hiking for one day on Saturday didn't make much sense. So on Saturday we hitched over to Caroline's hometown of Boone, NC and spent the day around town getting the local's tour of the Blue Ridge Parkway and the surrounds. The next day (Sunday) we spent the day on Lake Watauga on a couple of rented party barges with about 25 people total. It was heaps of fun but too much to go into here (nut shell: rope swings, bridge jumping, dancing, swimming, yelling, singing, partying, lots of cold refreshing beverages, etc). We were then back on the trail the next day (albeit a bit sluggish).

Just to stay consistent.....
Day 37, 29 May: Zero Day 5 - Backtrack from Watauga Lake Shelter to Hampton, TN & Braemar Castle hostel
Day 38, 30 May: Zero Day 6 - Hitched from Hampton, TN to Boone, NC and got the local's tour (Blue Ridge Parkway, etc).
Day 39, 31 May: Zero Day 7 - Watauga Lake boat party

And the details once we were back on the AT:
Day 40, 1 June: Boone, NC - Watauga Lake - Iron Mtn Shelter, 13.6 mi (net) / 4200ft gain (Now 1/5 of the way to Katahdin)(nice weather this day!)
Day 41, 2 June: Iron Mtn - TN/VA state line - Damascus, VA, 26.1 mi / 3300ft gain (longest day yet, 3 states complete!)
Day 42, 3 June: Damascus, VA - since we just had 3 zero days we aren't staying around Damascus. Hiking out of here this afternoon.

'I think its cheating'
Caroline and I did a lot of hitching during the past week. I think hitching with an attractive, young girl and both wearing backpacks on is kind of cheating as we never waited more than 10 minutes for a ride and it was usually closer to 2 or 3 minutes! A couple of times it was like 30 seconds.

Erwin, TN - Hampton, TN - details

Another late start out of Erwin, TN brought us to a hot, steep climb back out of yet another valley.

Day 31, 23 May: Erwin, TN - Beauty Spot - Deep Gap camping, 12.1 mi / 3500ft gain (great camping and fire with Two Sticks and Bryce)
Day 32, 24 May: Deep Gap - Unaka Mtn - Clyde Smith Shelter, 14.1 mi / 3500ft gain (Now 1/6 of the way to Katahdin!)(a little rain for the first time since leaving Hot Springs, NC)
Day 33, 25 May: Clyde Smith - Roan High Knob & Highlands - Overmountain Shelter, 12.9 mi / 4000ft gain (lots of rain this day and no views; stayed in a cool converted barn shelter)
Day 34, 26 May: Overmountain - Hump Mtn - NC/TN line - Jones Falls - Mountaineer Shelter, 18.0 mi / 3500ft gain (Done with North Carolina)(rain in the AM, cool shelter)
Day 35, 27 May: Mountaineer Shelter - Kincora hostel near Hampton, TN, 15.6 mi / 3200ft gain (great hostel; slept in treehouse!)(rain in AM again)
Day 36, 28 May: Kincora - Pond Flats Mtn - Watauga Lake Shelter, 10.7 mi / 2000 ft gain (hard climb for being called 'Pond Flats' and a hot day!)(rain all night and full shelter)

We woke up on Friday (29 May) morning to find Caroline ('Two Sticks') sick. I was also feeling very itchy and feared I had poison ivy, so Caroline and I decided to hike 1.8 miles back to the last highway we crossed and hitch into Hampton, TN which was close by and had a nice hostel. Bryce decided to continue on north. Apparently nearly everyone who stayed at the Kincora hostel had gotten sick. We could count 4 hikers out of maybe 20 that didn't get sick, me and Bryce being two of those.

Hot Springs, NC to Erwin, TN - details

Okay time to fully update my blog with details....

After a late start - 3 PM - leaving Hot Springs, NC I was back on the trail after 4 zero days.

Day 26, 18 May: Hot Springs, NC - Rich Mtn Fire Tower - Spring Mtn Shelter, 11.0 mi / 4000ft gain (Now 1/8 of the way to Katahdin!)(cold night!)
Day 27, 19 May: Spring Mtn - Jerry Cabin Shelter, 15.4 mi / 4200ft gain (cool ridge walk and views this day)(another cold night but had fire in shelter)
Day 28, 20 May: Jerry Cabin - Big Butt - Hogback Ridge Shelter, 14.7 mi / 3500ft gain (last cool night)
Day 29, 21 May: Hogback Ridge - Big Bald - Spivey Gap camping, 15.7 mi / 3800ft gain (nice campsite by stream)
Day 30, 22 May: Spivey Gap - Erwin, TN & Uncle Johnnys hostel, 11.3 mi / 1700ft gain (great place to stay!)

Saturday, May 30, 2009

R&R in Boone, NC

Quick update. I'm in Boone, NC today after hitching here from Hampton, TN where we stayed last night. I've been hiking with Bryce ('Shark Bite') and Caroline ('Two Sticks') every day since leaving Hot Springs, NC.

Since my last quick update I've hiked from Erwin, TN to the Kincora hiker hostel near Hampton, TN; about a 70 mile stretch. Our good weather streak ended and the rain has returned. Stayed in a treehouse at the Kincora hostel on the 27th. It was so cool, seriously. It was an 8 foot by 8 foot room/club house in the trees just big enough for a bed inside and huge windows on three sides. It was about 8 feet off the ground in the back in 25 feet off the ground in the front. Waking up and looking out into the trees was fantastic. A highlight of my trip so far for sure. Sweet!

Two days ago (28 May) we all hiked from the Kincora hostel to the Watauga Lake Shelter. It was supposed to be an easy section but it was freaking hot and Pond Flats mountain was very misleading name! That night at the shelter Caroline got sick and the next morning we decided to hike 2 miles back to the road and go into Hampton, TN instead of hiking 40 miles over two days to Damascus, VA. A tough choice but as it turns out the right one. As it turns out, nearly everyone who stayed at the Kincora hostel got sick. A delivered pizza seems to be the culprit. Bryce and I didn't have any of it and didn't get sick. Everyone else did. So Bryce hiked on from Lake Watauga and Caroline and I back tracked to Hampton. I also had a bad feeling about the 'bug bites' on my arms and legs so I wanted to get in for a shower ASAP as I was afraid I might have gotten poison ivy - its been all over the trail recently and Caroline is very good about pointing it out. So I convinced Caroline it was a good idea. Once in Hampton - where we stayed at another cool hostel - I discovered I had a little poison ivy. I was devastated! I did what I could however (including washing my sleeping bag and everything I own) and it seems to be better today fortunately. Guess I got to it soon enough. So it was quite fortunate that we made an unexpected town stop.

Today we decided not to hike as tomorrow a bunch of folks are getting together for a little fun in the sun on a boat on Lake Watauga. Caroline and another friend who are both from the area have been planning this little shindig for a while now so its some of their friends and a bunch of mutual hiking friends. Didn't make since to hike just for one day as the hitching to get back here would be difficult. Hitching to Boone was cake however! So after another 'zero' day tomorrow, we'll continue hiking from Lake Watauga north on Monday, arriving in Damascus, VA on Tuesday evening. That will be a big milestone, but I won't be taking any time there.

Hoping to do a more detailed shelter-by-shelter/day-by-day and mileage update in Damascus, VA in a few days.

Friday, May 22, 2009

Erwin, TN

Might not have time for a proper update on this town stop so this is just a quick update.

I arrived into Erwin, TN this afternoon (Friday, May 22) after 4 nights, 5 days, and 68 miles from Hot Springs. Staying here at a pretty cool hiker hostel called Uncle Johnnys here in Erwin. Its right on the Nolichucky Rive. Heading into town (Erwin) this evening for a resupply and dinner. Then heading back out on the trail tomorrow morning. Heading for Dennis Cove Road and the Kincora Hostel there which is about 70 miles from here.

Foot is feeling better but still not 100%. Other than that my body is doing fine. The people I'm hiking with, Shark Bite (Bryce) and Two Sticks (Caroline) say I look nothing like my drivers licence picture and they were shocked when I showed it to them. Guess I'm looking a bit unkept.

Sounds like I finally have a trail name.... Either 'Ice Man' or 'Ice Guy' or 'Mr. Ice Guy'. Not sure which one will stick but its something like that.

Ice Guy out.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Fontana Dam, NC to Hot Springs, NC

Well here I am in Hot Springs, NC again after 4 days and 3 nights in Damacus, VA for Trail Days - an annual hiker bash - and I'm really anxious to get back out on the trail but also really need to update my blog. So here is the rest of whats been going on (there is another new post before this one).

"Enter the Smokies (aka, Great Smoky Mountains National Park)"

Day 14, 6 May: Fontana Dam Village resupply - Fontana Dam - GSMNP southern border - Mollies Ridge Shelter, 11.3 mi (still raining every day)
Day 15, 7 May: Mollies Ridge - Derrick Knob Shelter, 11.7 mi (saw two bears, a huge wild turkey, and heard a wild hog)
Day 16, 8 May: Derrick Knob - Clingmans Dome (views) - Mt. Collins Shelter, 13.5 mi (had great views between thunderstorms from the highest peak - Clingmans Dome - on the AT)
Day 17, 9 May: Mt. Collins - Charlie's Bunion (views) - Pecks Corner Shelter, 14.9 mi
Day 18, 10 May: Pecks Corner - Cosby Knob Shelter, 12.9 mi (1st nice day in a long time, no rain during the day)
Day 19, 11 May: Cosby Knob - GSMNP northern border - Standing Bear Farm hostel, 10.4 mi (fantastic and unquie hostel with outside shower)
Day 20, 12 May: Standing Bear Farm - Max Patch mountain (fantastic views) - Walnut Mountain Shelter, 20.3 miles and 6300 ft of elevation gain (perfect weather day, really windy night in the shelter)
Day 21, 13 May: Walnut Mountain - Hot Springs, NC, 13.1 miles

272 miles in 21 days with no days off. Nearly 1/8 of the way to Katahdin!

Day 22, 14 May: Zero Day 1 - hitched to Damacus, VA for Trail Days
Day 23, 15 May: Zero Day 2 - Trail Days, Damacus, VA
Day 24, 16 May: Zero Day 3 - Trail Days, Damacus, VA
Day 25, 17 May: Zero Day 4 - got ride back to Hot Springs from First Baptist
Day 26, 18 May: Hot Springs, NC to ???
Soaked in Hot Springs tubs this morning. Now leaving Hot Springs in a few minutes. Next stop Uncle Johnny's in Erwin, TN in about 5 days

"Vitamin I"
I had been taking my daily doseage of Vitamin I (Ibuprofen) and my knees were feeling much better so I had been trying to ween myself off of it a few days ago. I guess the combination of no Vitamin I and the large(ish) day on the 12 of May caused my right foot to start bothering me. So much so that I was limping around Hot Springs the afternoon I arrived. Its a good thing I was planning to take 4 zero days (a 'zero day' is a day where one hikes zero miles) and attend Trail Days in Damacus. This gave my foot some time to heal. Its feeling much better today but I'm going to take it easy for the next few days and only do 10-12 mile days. Other than my right foot and some residual knee soreness, the ole body is doing pretty well.

Speaking of the ole body.... At Trail Days they had a first aid tent set up where they were offering free blood screenings (cholesterol and a bunch of other useful stuff). Since I'd never gotten any blood work of that type done, I jumped at the chance. My cholesterol was fairly low (~73) despite my egg-rich diet. All other values were within the healthy ranges too. That was reassuring especially with my horrible diet since I've been on the trail. They had a scale/body fat machine there too and I really haven't lost any weight since I started; maybe a couple of pounds at most. I'm assuming that will change as I'm only 3 weeks in.

"The Evil Weed"
I've still managed to avoid any contact with the evil weed - who's name I dare not speak - probably in no small part to me wearing pants every day for the past 3 weeks. I did have a scare for a couple of days in the Smokies when I thought I had it though. Still clean though so I might hike in shorts today. Suppose to get close to freezing tonight.

"Lesson 2 revisted"
Had a chance to re-seal my tent seams my first afternoon in Hot Springs and then followed by rain my first night at Trail Days in Damacus. All dry!! Looking forward to being able to camp in the rain again and not have to stay in the shelters.

"Short Trail Days summary"
The annual hiker bash in Damascus, VA known as Trail Days was a blast. Got all my gear issues resolved at the vendor's tents which was my big motivation for going. Got heaps of free food, nearly none of it was healthy. A lot so the hiker services were provided by the first baptist church and I can honestly say I've never been in and out of a church so many times in my entire life as I had those 4 days in Damascus. They are very generous bunch and I got away with only one pray before the shuttle ride back down to Hot Springs. Rained the first and third nights but lucked out otherwise. Hiked in the Hiker Parade on Saturday (16 May) which was a blast. All in all a good time and some much needed time off the trail. But I'm itching to get going so off I go. Not sure when I'll be able to email again so don't hold your breath.

Hiwassee, GA to Fontana Dam, NC - Gettin' caught up'

Where did I leave off? Ah yes.....

Day 7, 29 April: Hiawassee, GA - GA/NC line - Bly Gap camp, 9.0 mi (great campsite just past GA/NC border; first night in NC!)
Day 8, 30 April: Bly Gap - Carter Gap Shelter, 15.3 mi (foggy all day, no views)
Day 9, 1 May: Carter Gap - Rock Gap Shelter, 12.1 mi (first day of rain!)
Day 10, 2 May: Rock Gap - Franklin, NC resupply - Wayah Shelter, 14.8 mi (rain & Trail Angel Gywn* - see below)
Day 11, 3 May: Wayah Shelter - Nantahala Outdoor Center, NOC (Wesser, NC), 16.3 mi (rain)
Day 12, 4 May: NOC - Sassafras Gap Shelter, 6.9 mi (fewest mile day yet, a little rain)
Day 13, 5 May: Sassafras Gap - Fontana Dam Shelter, 21.8 mi

"Spoiled"
Guess we got spoiled the first week out with nice - albeit hot - weather as it rained every day or night from 1 May to 11 May !! I think this is a nice segue to life lesson #2: Make sure you re-seal the seams on your 3-year-old tarp tent before your 2,200 mile hike... The second night it rained (2 May) I was camped at the Wayah Shelter the evening before my hike into the Nantahala Outdoor Center. It had rained a bit the night before and I got a couple drops on my face and bag and the thought occured to me that I should re-seal the seams at the next possible town stop. Well this night it stormed and I got soaked, the wettest I've ever slept. Luckily it wasn't too cold, but it was frustrating none the less. As the forecast was for rain for the forseeable future, I would be forced to sleep in the dreaded mouse-infested AT shelters! The horror. Fortunately my bag was able to dry out the next night at the NOC hiker bunkhouse (in case you were wondering, no, its not fun to sleep in a wet down bag two consecutive nights).

"Trail Angel Gywn"
When Bryce (aka Tarzan, aka Shark Bite) and I arrived at Winding Stair Gap on the 2nd of May to hitch a ride into Franklin, NC for a resupply we were greeted by a pleasant surprise. Two older couples were there and one of the women was the 'shuttle driver' for the other 3 hikers. Gywn offered us a ride into Franklin. Sweet! We didn't even have to stick out our thumbs. She dropped us at the grocery store and said she would wait for us. We said she didn't have to and thanked her. Well an hour and 15 minutes later when we emerged from the store she was there waiting for us to take us to our next destination, the post office where we organized our packages (aka, food drops). Then she insisted on taking us to our next errand, the drug store. We thanked her kindly for all the rides to which she responded, "well I'm in this for the long haul. You do what you need to do and I'll take you back up to the trail." We where shocked and very thankful. That's 'Trail Magic'. No, actually its a 'Trail Angel'.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Amicalola Falls State Park to Springer Mt. to Hiawassee, GA

A shuttle from The Hiker Hostel in Dahlonega, GA (where I stayed Wednesday night) dropped me off at Amicalola Falls State Park on Thursday (23 April 2009) morning. This state park is where the 'approach trail' to the start of the AT - and to the summit of Springer Mt - begins. The summit of Springer Mt. (3782 ft) is the official start of the Appalachian Trail and from what I gather, roughly 60% of potential thru-hikers actually get dropped off at the summit of Springer Mt as there is a dirt road going nearly to the top. For me, getting dropped off at the top of a mountain didn't seem like the 'right way' to start a thru-hike. So I opted to hike up the approach trail which was just under 9 miles and close to 3000 vertical feet with the ups and downs. Nevertheless I made it to the top in just over 3 hours. I probably went faster than I should have as I was a bit excited.

I can't possibly go through each day of my hike, so (mainly for my own records) I think I'm going to list my campsites/destinations and mileage for each day.

Day 1, 23 April: Amicalola Falls State Park - Springer Mt. summit - Stover Creek Shelter, 11.6 mi
Day 2, 24 April: Stover Creek - Gooch Mt. Shelter, 12.3 mi
Day 3, 25 April: Gooch Mt. - Neels Gap/Walasi-Yi Center, 15.6 mi (stayed at hostel here)
Day 4, 26 April: Neels Gap - Low Gap Shelter, 10.8 mi
Day 5, 27 April: Low Gap - Cheese Factory Campsite, 13.0 mi
Day 6, 28 April: Cheese Factory - Dicks Creek Gap/Hiawassee, 13.0 mi (stayed at Blueberry Patch Hostel here)

So over 6 days I've hiked 76.3 miles, which is probably a little more aggressive than I should be hiking starting out, especially with my sore knees.

Although I've been hiking more or less shelter-to-shelter I've been in my tent every night because of snorers but mainly mice in the shelters. I like the social gatherings at the shelters each night too. I've kind of fell into a group of about 5 or 6 really good folks and we've been staying at the same shelters or campsites each night. We are all hiking about the same milage right now, so although we don't necessarily hike together during the day we usually stay at the same place each night. A few people have fallen behind however.

The past 6 days of hiking have been a little more difficult than I was expecting for a couple of reasons.

One thing I wasn't expecting is how much up and down there is on this trail. You are constantly going up and down small mountains (which is quite different from the hiking I do in WA where you usually go constantly uphill for a long time before going constantly downhill). Its probably an average of 2-3000 feet of elevation gain each day with the miles I've been hiking. My knees - which were already sore from the season of hard skiing - have not been 100%. That is really my only real issue so far is my sore knees. I can't squat very well or generally bend my knees all that much without pain so the down hills are a little slow and painful. Hopefully the ole knees will get use to the miles, but just in case I'm going to start popping some Ibuprofen daily. I don't want to do any long term damage to my knees so I'm being really careful.

My only other fear is 'the evil vine'; poison ivy. I see it every where and its scary. Although its been pretty hot the entire week I've been here - with highs in the upper 70's to low 80's - I've been hiking in pants every day as I'm so paranoid about getting it. Its mental torture! But so far so good.

It has yet to rain here since I've been in GA but I hear there might be some rain on the horizon. On some of those hot days though I would have given anything for some rain. My first day out I got sun burned on my arms as the leaves have not filled in the canopies yet. I'm praying for some cooler temperatures.....

After the hike yesterday (Tuesday, 28 April) to Dicks Creek Gap a few of us hitched into Hiawassee to stay at the Blueberry Patch Hostel. What a great, friendly place and a fantastic country style breakfast this morning! Went out to eat last night and to re-supply at the grocery store in town. This morning I had to come back into town to use the internet at the library but we're about to hitch back to the trail to get some miles in today. So that's about all for now. Next town stop is Franklin, NC in 40 miles or ~3 days. Here I'll have to do some real shopping and get some food drops sent ahead.

PS - I'm still waiting for a trail name to find me. A couple have come up but nothing has stuck yet.

"The Dirty Dog" Experience

I finally made it to the 'Hiker Hostel' in Dahlonega, GA completing 28+ hours of travel from when Dad and I left the house [Austin, TX] at 6 AM Tuesday (21 April) morning to when I arrived at the hostel at 10:30 AM this morning (Wednesday). My first Greyhound (aka, 'the dirty dog') experience was just that, an experience. I'll say right off the bat that I believe the long distance Greyhound thing isn't for eveyone. It started out with actually not taking a Greyhound bus at all from Austin, but rather an 'Americano' line bus to Dallas - complete with a stop in Dallas's 'little mexico' before finally arriving at the Dallas Greyhound station on time. Not sure exactly how that happened as the bus left from Austin about 15 minutes early and we were hurried onto the bus because it was 'late'. I didn't realize until the stop in Temple that it was not a greyhound bus! It was the general consenus among the few other confused passengers that we would eventually make it to Dallas. The driver spoke very little english, but from what I gathered, quite good spanish. At this stop in 'Little Mexico' most of the passengers got off and a few got on. One guy I noticed board the bus was acting rather odd. First he was staring at this woman and her child as if he knew them and then he sort of approached another woman and her child before deciding to return to his seat. strange behavior.

So at the Dallas Greyhound terminal I had two plus hours to kill. I walked around downtown Dallas for 45 minutes or so before returning to the terminal. Not much to look at in downtown dallas I gathered, although I did see the site and read the history of the very first Neiman-Marcus store. At the station, as I sat there I saw two cops approach this guy who was sitting 15 feet from me, ask him to stand up, and then arrested him. It was the same guy from my bus that was acting strange. Off you go!

Then it was time to board the long bus to Atlanta. I got suckered into paying an extra $5 so I could board first and pick my seat, but it was totally unnecessary. Somewhere near the Louisana-Missippi boarder is where the fun began again. From the back of the bus I had been hearing a young sounding, very obnoxious girl talking loudly, laughing, and generally making strange noises with - I thought - a friend. As people were trying to sleep, some other riders finally started telling her to be quiet. But she just got beligerant and started yelling at people. The driver had to pull over and ask her to come to the front as there was nearly a scuffle about to break out. So at the front of the bus it became apparent that this 20-22 year old girl was by herself, drunk and high on something. She started hitting and spitting on the bus driver and demanding to be left off the bus (young, drunk girl being let off the bus in the middle of nowhere at night? hello lawsuit.) So the driver did the right thing and just contained her while another rider called 911. It took about 30 minutes for the police to arrive all the while this girl is cusing, throwing out racial slurs, repeatedly spitting on the driver and the door, and be very aggressive and hitting the driver. The driver did the right thing and only defended himself. Finally people where getting really anxious as everyone had better places to be. So the suggestion came up several times to "hog-tie 'er, gag 'er, and put 'er down below with the luggage." I'm sure nothing would have pleased everyone more, but instead one big, fellow passenger helped to restrain the girl and tie her hands together with a belt until the police arrived. Off you go! "go sell crazy somewhere else, we're all stocked up here!"

The last stop before Atlanta was Birmingham, AL where at 3:30 AM everyone had to unload the bus (just like a few other major stops) and hang out in the Birmingham bus station for 30 minutes in the middle of the night. Fun times.

Finally we arrive into Atlanta about 35 minutes late and my 1 hour layover suddenly turns into a 20 minute frantic layover with me trying to get my pack tagged and in line before the next bus left without me. No need to hurry after all, as I made that connection too. A person from the hostel arrived at the Gainesville's bus station about 5 minutes after I arrived to give me a lift (~30 minutes) to the hostel ($40! yikes)

As I said before, long distance on The Dirty Dog is not for everyone and I'm certainly going to try to stick to trains where ever I can. Not to say I won't ride the Dog again, I'll just consider my options more carefully and with this experience in mind.

The Hiker Hostel in Dahlonega is awesome, although I think I'm the only one here right now. Its out in the country on this little wooded hill, the owner keeps their own bees and chickens, a garden is being started, its in the owners home and it feels like a home (a nice, big, new home, 5 years old), the weather is cool, the view is nice, big porch on the back with a BBQ pit, fire pit, and swinging chair, hot tub (not sure if it works), and its quite.

I'll get a ride to Amicolola State Park tomorrow morning - after the home-cooked breakfast - and start hiking...